That Dapper Chap takes us through the SS16 collection from Savile Rows Chester Barrie as part of London Collections: Men
Rocking up at the recently refurbished Ivy restaurant, one of London’s most sought after eateries, frequented by the rich and famous, I was excited to see what Chester Barrie had been working on for SS16.
The Chester Barrie Spring/Summer 2016 collection has modern luxury at its very heart. Designed with the modern yet elegant man in mind, it brings Savile Row style to a wider audience.
Highlights include rare and beautiful cloths such as baby alpaca with kid mohair and a seersucker in super 150s wool blended with silk; but the key to the collection is the use of colour. A summer palette of ink blue, soft pink, jade and stone off-set the more classic blues and greys.
At the core of the collection are weekend sportcoats, realised in blends of linen, silk, mohair and wool with textured finishes and embracing the season’s palette, they are available in both structured and unstructured models. Ideal for every occasion.
Beyond the jacket is the modern business suit. Constructed in a variety of clear-cut wools for freshness and it is offered in glen checks, windowpane birdseyes and bold stripes, complementing the more conservative solid twills, fine herringbones and semi-plain twist weaves.
Meanwhile the luxury travel suit comes in a high-twist lightweight worsted and is softly structured, with minimal lining for comfort and performance.
Evening suits are presented in bright navy, midnight blue and black as well as a considered revival of the classic tuxedo in a proper English cream and in a textured blend of wool, silk and linen. Wider, rounded shawl-lapels are complemented with curved, turn-back cuffs on the sleeves.
Shirts are in voile, linen/cotton oxford, madras check and a new fine-gauge giro inglese and are shown in a range of collar shapes from the extreme cutaway to the rounded pin-collar. Other key under-pinning pieces include cotton/linen polo shirts in stone, aqua, midnight and cream.
About Chester Barrie – Tailors of the Unexpected:
Chester Barrie is the ultimate Modern Tailor, taking established forms and developing them; creating the unexpected. The tailor’s art is to take a piece of cloth and create a three-dimensional form, to bring it to life so that it sculpts and flatters the wearer.
Chester Barrie’s aim is to do this, not just with the standard suit and jacket but also with a broader product range. It mixes the craftsmanship and knowledge gained over the past 80 years with a contemporary eye.
Innovation has always been its way. Established in the 1930s Chester Barrie was one of the first to offer ready-to-wear tailoring, providing the same attention to detail and commitment to quality as the old bespoke houses on Savile Row but making great tailoring more accessible. At the time it was revolutionary.
This belief in the best continues to this day – though much else has moved on. The way men dress has changed dramatically and so too has Chester Barrie. Lighter fabrics, innovative blends and a far softer structure have ushered in a more relaxed form of dressing, which Chester Barrie has embraced and developed. The aim is to be the modern tailor to the modern man.