Tuesday, 19 January 2016

London Collections: Men - Day 2

Craig of That Dapper Chap takes us around day two of London Collections: Men and shows us what Saturday had to offer





E.Tautz


After a good nights sleep in my Uncle Steves spare bed I woke fresh and ready for day 2 and made my way from leafy Hanwell directly to the E.Tautz catwalk show on the Strand.

This is one show that I was really looking forward to as Patrick Grant is one of my style idols and he didn't disappoint.


I was disappointed however by the fact that I ended up standing right at the back and having to crane my neck to see even a smidge of the great stuff he put out.

For me the coats ruled the day as did the great range of fabrics that Patrick gave us including Donegal tweed, cashmere, Shetland wool and leather.


E.Tautz accessorised with some great scarves
Another great coat and more cool neckwear

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Classic styling in great fabrics
I love the wide collar on this coat and the Christian Louboutin shoes
An incredible checked double breasted coat


Berthold


So disappointed by mor poor positioning at the E.Tautz show I left down hearted but determined to make sure that next time I would get a better view.  

Next for me was Berthold so I trekked back to Swiss Church in Endell Street and was one of the first people there. Yes, front row! No jostling, no elbows in the ribs.

While slightly out of the That dapper Chap comfort zone, I did appreciate the shapes, cuts and styling that Berthold gave us. 

Named 'Drowning' the presentation gave us sculptural qualities in supple rubber, coated cottons and other robust textiles, all designed to protect the wearer from the elements.


The new Berthold collection at LC:M
A twist on the traditional yellow fishermans coat
Heavy scarves and thick jersey sweaters protect the wearer

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classic and wearable items from Berthold
A nod to the life jackets in this cropped coat
High necklines and ling coats in the 'Drowning' collection


Lou Dalton


I didn't realise I was a fan of Lou Dalton's work until I saw this show. Lou's Father was a Teddy Boy and there are clear influences in this collection, particularly in the oversized check trousers and jackets.

Described as "thought provoking and considered" Lou's contemporary classical tailoring has won her many awards and its easy to see why.

With a range in River Island and a Thunderbirds themed collection under her belt it seems Lou is becoming one of the best female designers in London.

The check fabrics was a highlight of Lou Dalton's show
fashionable and functional style from Lou Dalton

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Another great jacket that I'd personally like in my wardrobe
Maybe not That Dapper Chap style but there's something about this I really like
It's that check fabric again, this time teamed with a great camel coloured coat


Oliver Spencer


After a quick coffee and a bite to eat it was back to the Strand for Oliver Spencer. Another of my favorite designers Oliver is a self taught tailor and started his career from a small market stall in London's Portobello Road.

Oliver Spencer gave us one of my favorite collection of relaxed and contemporary formal pieces. Great jackets and waistcoats teamed with unstructured trousers in stripes and checks.

Knitwear was also showcased with many of the models wearing staple items for the coming season.

A beautiful jacket and waistcoat worn in a contemporary styling
Modern sophistication from Oliver Spencer
I love everything about this look

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Another awesome look from Oliver Spencer
This patterned coat over a plain grey suit made my day
Model Richard Biedul wearing some very cool knitwear


Matthew Miller


Matthew Miller was up next on the That Dapper Chap itinerary. remembering my positioning at the E.Tautz catwalk I did my best to get a spot with a better view and I'm pleased with the few shots that I got.

With the theme of 'Nouveau Riche' as it's inspiration the AW16 collection from matthew Miller gave us lots of black in addition to a contrast of hand-painted oil on canvas with their 'David & Goliath' coat.

Shapes hailing from a forgotten historical era were given updated silhouettes and both biker and bomber jackets and graced the catwalk.


Unstructured shapes, belted for a clean silhouette

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Matthew Miller monochrome 
The biker jacket the Matthew Miller way
Hand painted oil on canvas


Thomas Pink


Finally, after a day of running around London, feet hurting and back aching I made my way to the Thomas Pink presentation. Always a riot of colour and pattern this show is one that I always look forward to seeing.

from bar to botanical to block colour, Thomas Pink is always treat for the eyes. 

Taking inspiration from the enchantment and hideaways offered by the British countryside and coastline, industrial and architectural elements were hinted at and enjoyed by the crowd. 

I always enjoy the Thomas Pink show, not only do I genuinely love the collection but the Williams Chase gin cocktails helped me enjoy it just that little bit more.

The new Thomas Pink Collection at LC:M
Suited & booted in grey check suit and pink bow tie
Rich burgundy and blues for AW16
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Its all about colour for Thomas pink, it shouldn't work but it really does!
Colour on colour on colour a feast for the eyes
I really love this blue shirt with its architectural pattern
Maybe not for TDC but this is one statement shirt not to be ignored

So, with a busy day two under my belt, tired, weary but inspired I made my way back to Hanwell where a warm welcome, a hot meal and a comfortable bed waited and boy did I need all three.


Thanks for taking time out to read the blog. You're welcome back any time.



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